"The Idiot's Guide to Simple Travel in Ukraine"

Conventional Railway Trains

Travel by train in Ukraine is the most common long distance mass transit used by the vast majority of people traveling both within Ukraine and within Eastern Europe. It is relatively inexpensive, easy to use, and fairly reliable despite the fact the vast majority of inner-country trains are very old and in bad need of maintenance and modernization. Trains are regularly scheduled, and go to almost every major area within every region in the country.

Tickets generally may be purchased by either going directly to the train Vokzal or depot (not to be confused with the cross-country bus Vokzal or riverside ship Vokzal) in the central part of Kyiv, or any of the cities in the country. In larger cities, you may also purchase tickets from a designated agency office which is recommended to avoid the usually long lines and sometimes cranky ticket agents at the central Vokzal. Bear in mind that the railway system is a for-profit enterprise, and as such has seasonally adjusted prices for travel according to accommodations wanted. Plan ahead, call, or better yet, check the websites for train schedules and pricing before you go anywhere to buy a ticket. One of the most comprehensive travel websites with schedules is: http://www.bestofukraine.com .

There are many cities that offer suburban style commuter trains from the central “hub” cities. These go on a regular basis from the hub city to the smaller destination city and offer only bench or seat accommodations. These are usually very inexpensive, even in tourist seasons in summer. You have to check for them on an individual destination basis.

There basically three classes of train travel for non-suburban travel ranging from the basic open sleeping berths cars to the more expensive private, two-berth “soft class” compartments. There is also the four berth compartments, or “deluxe” class which most people travel in. These last two classes offer much safer travel in that the doors close and lock from inside whereas the open berth sleeping cars don’t offer any closed security areas. In summer, it is even possible to pay for the “extra deluxe” accommodation of having air conditioning in your compartment, but this is NOT guaranteed to be functional beyond the top part of the window going down to let in air flow during travel. It is nice, however, if it works, and then worth the price. I've had both situations in the past going to Crimea in the very hot summertime.

An interesting note regarding travel outside of Ukraine is that Stalin was afraid of the Germans invading using railway tracks so he had all the USSR tracks built three inches wider than the standard ones in Europe. Therefore when you reach any border going out of Ukraine, the train will stop, be literally hoisted ten feet in the air so that the wheels may be realigned for your continued journey. It’s an interesting thing to experience.

Bedding and linens are supplied now in the cost of your ticket, or they normally are. If they are not for some reason, the conductor will come and ask you to pay when he or she asks for your travel ticket. The cost is very little, and you will also be offered some tea or coffee, which are complimentary the first time around.

As with any long distance travel in Ukraine, whether bus or conventional train, you are highly advised to bring all your travel needs and supplies, especially toilet paper, as well as food, snacks and drinks. There are dining cars on most long distance trains, and the conductors can also sell you tea, coffee, and snacks. There is a table in the compartment that you will share with your traveling companions as all four berths are mixed company…that is men and women, regardless of whether you are acquainted before or not. As Ukraine is a very social country, it’s not a problem, and everyone seems willing to usually share vodka, wine, kielbasa and so on. However, be prepared too, for the fact that moral standard are considerably different here. People don’t wear a lot to bed normally, especially in summer and are not reluctant to move around so attired…

A final word of caution, don’t expect toilets on trains to be sanitary and up to USA standards. They aren’t. Most are not outright “nasty-bad,” but not good either. They are very old and not much past the outhouses commonly found at village homes or roadside cafes. Some have functional showers that the locals use, but I won’t, or haven’t had to yet. Bring your own soap and towel when washing up. Not sure if they have hot water. Water taps are tricky upside down button affairs and the commode flushes onto the tracks so you have to be there when the train is moving or you can’t use it.